“I am exceedingly obliged for your exertions in forwarding reinforcements to this army. I like your plan exceedingly of equipping the troops with Jackets, as I am persuaded these may be had, and coats cannot; and tho’ they are not quite as sightly, they will serve to render them comfortable.” –Gnl. Greene to Gnl. Steuben […]
Read more "Jackets and Adjustments"Five years have passed since we tried our hand at an early 19th century tailcoat. John Lewis Krimmel provides some great inspiration, rocking out at the Wayside Inn. May have to forego the bullwhip, but checks and a cigar are always welcome. The older the sewing efforts, the more horrifying the garment. The tailcoat pattern […]
Read more "Federal Era Revised"Linings are a great way to check fit one last time. Breeches should be tight. Make sure that the crouch seam is snug against the nether regions. Whip or tack the linings with big (one inch) stitches. If everything looks good, transfer any changes to the body and cut the lining back open. Turn the […]
Read more "Legs And Linen"Here is the collar halfway off the coat. The old center-back seam allowance is visible, and the collar lining is free to shorten the collar to match the coat seams. After the seams are pressed open, the collar lining pieces get trimmed and everything is overcast back in place. Over to the side seams. The […]
Read more "Adjustments"The mid-eighteenth century British regimental is a strange beast: voluminous, not sleek like those from thirty years later. It can be worn any number of ways. Rich officer types would often unbutton the lapels and shove their hands between the coat and the waistcoat for portraits. The shape is unmistakable: short sleeves, big cuffs, long […]
Read more "Regimental Revisited"After another trip to help out at the museum, it occurs to me that others may benefit from my inebriated experience. I am by no means an expert, but I may be able to help someone with the agony of men’s breeches. Breeches are weird. They do not fit like 20th century pants. If the wearer’s […]
Read more "Thoughts On Late 18th Century Breeches"M. de Garsault tells us: “Before sewing the fronts to the backs, pin them together and check by the measurements. Sew the armhole down to where the pleats begin, then sew the shoulder seams…” I’m not sure how this was done in the 18th century. Women were fitted for stays and had their gowns put […]
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