As I labored in the salt mines lining the frock coat, Kitty watched quietly. “Why are you doing it that way?” What followed was an intensive course from a professional. I have forgotten much in my three-year hiatus. All of my awkward habits of 15 years ago have returned–pulling stitches too tight, insane frustration with fabric cut on the bias, even using the wrong thread and stitch. Once an apprentice always an apprentice. On top of that I haven’t made a frock coat in twenty years.

Here is the tail of one back piece. The way the pattern lines up the silk is cut on a slight bias, which makes it a bitch to turn, especially on a curve. K had to remind me to baste it all down (which I did with the button holes.) One side was not basted which caused problems later. The two fabrics are so dissimilar the fight is pretty constant. The silk is also too thin for linings

I started with the wrong stitch using linen thread, which was soon replaced by silk and the hem stitch shown here. Combine bad stitch tension with no basting and you are just asking for problems. As I mindlessly hemmed the stitches would get tighter. The tighter the stitch the more the silk pulls on the wool creating remarkable puckers. Without basting the lining can wander off the seam allowance. The result: I had to go back and cut out half the linings, both front and back to do it properly. Lesson learned?

The biggest improvement in my technique came from putting a pillow in my lap (thanks, honey!) So much easier for hand sewing. Another interesting discovery: I have Scoliosis. All this time I’ve struggled with the left side of garments and now I know why. At this point I need to point out that you REALLY need someone else to help you fit stuff.

According to Uncle Henry, frock coats were more streamlined late in the century. Cuffs were smaller and button holes were left off pocket flaps and cuffs. It fits my inherent laziness perfectly. The wool is still grumpy, as seen in this photo. Hopefully the finished garment will be tame.

Behold Quasimoto’s coat. The left seam is bigger than the right, which will play hell with the pleats later. I should not have cut and lined them. Methinks no Ryan pattern next time, I’ll switch to Henry’s. Next time we’ll see if we can get some sleeves on this thing.